My wife and I were finishing our freshman year of high school when Mount St. Helens erupted on May 18, 1980. She was in Maryland, and I was in New Jersey, but we both remember hearing about the eruption and seeing the devastation it left behind. Over the years, we watched dozens of videos, read articles, followed the recovery from a distance, and thought about visiting Mount St. Helens. We’d wanted to see the mountain for ourselves for a long time.
We finally made it to the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument in the summer of 2026. After an Alaska cruise, four of us spent a day at Olympic National Park and stayed overnight near Grand Mound and Centralia in Washington. On July 28, 2026, my wife and I set out with her sister and brother-in-law for Mount St. Helens. We had two days to explore, and I’m glad we did. Clouds hid the summit on our first day. When we went back the next morning, we could see into the crater and watch steam rise from the volcano.
Day 1 on Spirit Lake Highway
Our first view of the volcano at Silver Lake
We discovered Castle Rock on the way and stopped at the Mount St. Helens Creation Center, a visit I’ll share in a separate article. From there, we saw the sign for the Washington State Parks Mount St. Helens Visitor Center and pulled in. The viewing area just outside the front doors gave us our first good look at the volcano.
We took photos, read the outdoor signs, and used the restrooms. I walked a short way down a trail for a few more pictures. The center also has indoor exhibits and a theater, and Washington State Parks lists adult admission at $5. We wanted to get closer to the mountain, so we drove through nearby Silver Lake Resort to see where we’d be staying, then continued east on Spirit Lake Highway. Washington State Parks visitor center hours and fees.
The Toutle River Valley and the Forest Learning Center
The first thing that hit me on the drive was seeing the Toutle River. I remembered hearing about the devastation in this valley, and we were still a long way from the volcano. On both sides of the river, I could see a sharp line between stands of younger-looking trees (new growth after the eruption) and taller trees (older growth not impacted by the eruption) beyond them. Around the next bends, some of the planted stands looked so orderly they almost looked fake.
On May 18, 1980, a magnitude 5.1 earthquake shook Mount St. Helens, and the volcano’s north flank collapsed. The collapse released pressure and unleashed a sideways blast of hot gas, ash, and rock that devastated roughly 230 square miles. The debris avalanche buried miles of the North Fork Toutle River valley. Volcanic mudflows, called lahars, carried sediment farther downstream into the Cowlitz and Columbia rivers. Seeing the Toutle in person helped me understand how far the effects reached beyond the mountain itself. USGS account of the eruption.
At the Mount St. Helens Forest Learning Center, the summit was still in the clouds, but we were close enough to get a better sense of the mountain. We took in the views from the parking area, then walked up to an overlook. A volunteer had set up a spotting scope so visitors could see elk far below. He grew up in the area and told us about local logging history, hiking Mount St. Helens before the eruption, and even sleigh riding on the mountain.
From that overlook, we could see how much forest had grown back. We were just as surprised by how much ground beside the river still looked bare. The center tells the story of that recovery, including the timber industry’s replanting efforts. Admission is free, and the center posts its seasonal hours online. Forest Learning Center visitor information.
Taking our time at Coldwater Ridge
After pulling over at a few scenic overlooks, we reached the Science and Learning Center at Coldwater. That was as far as we could drive on Spirit Lake Highway during our visit. A 2023 landslide destroyed the Spirit Lake Outlet Bridge and cut off road access to Johnston Ridge Observatory. If you’re planning this drive, check the state’s project page for updates. The bridge construction schedule and the observatory reopening are separate milestones. WSDOT road and bridge updates.
This was the closest we got to the volcano. We wandered the paths outside the center, photographed wildflowers and berries, and looked out over Coldwater Lake and the surrounding mountains. We could still see stumps from trees blown down in the blast. After years of watching videos about this place, it felt good to sit on a bench and just take it all in.
While the others sat, I kept walking and met two people who asked if I’d take their picture. Later, they passed the bench where I’d rejoined my group and returned the favor. Thanks to them, we have photos of the four of us with Mount St. Helens behind us.
Our base at Silver Lake Resort for visiting Mount St. Helens
We booked Silver Lake Resort because lodging options near Mount St. Helens seemed limited; it was right on the water, and the reviews were very good. The place was more rustic than I expected from the name, but the owners made us feel welcome. The resort has cabins and campsites for tents and RVs, plus a two-story lakefront motel where guests can fish right from the decks. Guests can rent kayaks and small motorized boats during their stay.
We could see Mount St. Helens from our room’s deck. We played cards while others fished and spotted osprey, an eagle, and cormorants. A family from Seattle told us they came back every year to fish from the dock and took home dozens of crappies.
We had beautiful sunsets, but the memory I’ll keep coming back to is watching the moon rise over Silver Lake.
Our group made simple breakfasts in the room kitchen, grabbed quick lunches on the go, and took the owner’s recommendation for dinner at Amaro’s Table in Castle Rock. The dinner was so good that we went back the second night.
Day 2 at Coldwater Ridge and Coldwater Lake
On July 29, the skies had mostly cleared, so we retraced our drive to Coldwater Ridge. Clouds still lingered, but this time we could see the summit, look into the crater, and watch steam rise from the volcano. It felt like a different place, and this was the view we had hoped for.
After spending more time at the center, we drove down to Coldwater Lake and walked the Birth of a Lake Trail. The Forest Service lists it as about 0.6 miles round trip, with a boardwalk and signs explaining how the lake formed. The 1980 debris avalanche blocked Coldwater Creek, and water backed up behind the debris. A spillway stabilized the lake level in 1981. Additional details are in the Forest Service trail guide and the USGS lake formation study.
I waded near the lake outlet while other groups swam. We’ve always liked looking at rocks, so we stopped often to photograph the volcanic rock along the shore and in the water. One little island caught our attention; we were told it formed when a large rock landed there during the eruption. Walking beside the water made the story on the signs easier to picture. Before the eruption, a creek ran here. We stood beside a lake formed by a natural dam from the eruption.
That evening, we walked through Castle Rock before dinner. Flower baskets hung from the streetlamps, and music played from outdoor speakers as we strolled through town. We finished the trip with another night of cards at the motel. The next morning, we checked out and drove to Mount Rainier National Park.
What I’d do on a return visit
- See Spirit Lake and its floating logs. We ran out of time to drive to the volcano’s east side. I’d like to see Spirit Lake from Windy Ridge and look for the floating logs left by the eruption. Wind moves the logs around the lake, so where you see them can change. Forest Road 99 closes seasonally for snow. Check the Mount St. Helens Institute for access information and NASA’s look at the floating logs.
- Hike to the crater rim. The usual summer route via Monitor Ridge is a strenuous scramble of roughly 10 miles round trip with 4,500 feet of elevation gain. A climbing permit is required year-round. For more information, check out Monitor Ridge route details and Mount St. Helens climbing permits.
We’d wanted to see Mount St. Helens since high school. I’m glad we took the time to sit and look, drove back when the skies cleared, and spent an evening watching the moon rise over Silver Lake. Watching the moon’s reflection on Silver Lake, along with all that we saw at Mount St. Helens, reminded me to be grateful for each day and to thank God for the beauty of His creation.
If you’re looking for additional places to explore, start with our Outdoor Destinations page. If work takes you somewhere new, our Business Trip Adventures post shares ways to fit an outdoor stop into your schedule. And if this trip has you thinking about exploring national parks, visit our National Parks page for guides and firsthand trip stories.
Adventure Never Gets Old™